Maggie has actively working with stained glass since 2012.
It all began with a Craigslist ad looking for help creating the Bethlehem and Moravian stars that sell at the local book shop. In the years that followed Maggie spent several summers at Pilchuck Glass Art School in Washington state, expanded her knowledge at Urban Glass in Brooklyn, NYC, and even attended a few local classes at the Banana Factory in Bethlehem, and Warner Stained Glass in Allentown.
Every piece is handmade… from creating the pattern, to the finished product. Below is a brief description of every each…
Pattern Creation
Most of the patterns are created by hand. Some larger pieces I make in procreate and utilize the local print shop to print to size.
Cutting & Grinding
Traditional glass cutting consists of scoring the glass and using running pliers to snap the glass along the score. Many artist will use a glass saw for deep cuts. Grinders are used to clean/smooth the piece.
Copper Foiling/Lead Caming
Copper foil is often called the “Tiffany style” of stained glass and is great for smaller and especially 3D pieces, such as lamps. Lead caming is often used larger window installations. Many artists will combine the two.
Transferring the Pattern
There are several ways to transfer the pattern. Smaller pieces are simply traced with a black or silver sharpie; yet other patterns can be transferred using water proof and a mild adhesive (Elmer’s Glue)
Soldering
Soldering requires an iron heated around 360 C (680 F). A gel flux is applied which helps the solder dry even. The iron is held like a pen in you dominant hand and the solder in the other. (this is a craft that takes some time to master)
Cleaning & Patina
Rinsing the flux off immediately after you are finished soldering is extremely helpful. Then using a soft brush (such as a toothbrush) clean the glass and the solder lines with dawn dish soap. A copper or black patina can be applied and finish it off with a polish.